Nassarius snails, which are commonly found in the coastal zones of most oceans, are one of the most ideal scavengers and detritus eaters for a reef aquarium. They have oval, spiral shells that resemble olive pits, and vary in size depending upon species. The Super Tongan Nassarius Snail (Nassarius distortus), for example, can reach a length of up to 1 inch, and is larger, easier to see, and very helpful in larger aquariums. Smaller Nassarius snails, such as Nassarius vibex, are often around 1/2 inch in length, and are useful in smaller aquariums, refugiums, and aquariums with less sand surface area.

Nassarius snails have a long tube-like siphon that protrudes from the end of the shell. They spend most of their time buried in the sand, with only their siphon extending above the substrate. Because these snails have an incredible sense of smell, they quickly detect any food introduced into the aquarium, and cause the substrate to “boil” as they emerge in search of food. They quickly consume detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste before they can be broken down by bacteria and release excess nutrients in the system. In addition, while burying themselves they aerate the sand bed/substrate, which helps maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

The Super Nassarius Snail does best in an established aquarium with live rock and a deep sand bed. These snails are sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications.

The Super Nassarius Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.

Supplemental feeding for the Nassarius snails is not required in a marine aquarium with an established sand bed. However, if insufficient food is present, supplement their diet with frozen meaty foods such as brine or mysis shrimp and pieces of fish or scallop.

aquariablog’s take: I have dozens of these in my tank. They do a fantastic job of keeping the sand stirred and eating detrius. It’s also fun to see all these little “periscope” like appendages sticking up out of the sand and then to see them absolutely erupt from the sandbed when I add food.

The Cerith Snail is a small scavenger with an elongated spiral shell that is usually black with tiny white dots covering the entire shell. One of the most ideal scavengers, detritus eaters, and algae eaters, this snail is perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly devouring detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, fish waste, and several types of nuisance algae. Cerith Snails will often bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

The Cerith Snail prefers an established aquarium with live rock and a deep sand bed. These snails are sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications.

The Cerith Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.

aquariablog’s take: This snail is a great worker and a valuable part of my cleanup crew. They clean everywhere..on the glass, rocks and they help to turn the sand.

The Rusty Angelfish is aptly named for its predominate red or amber coloration punctuated with black dots that decrease in size from dorsal to anal and pelvic fins. The anal fin is dark and both the dorsal and anal fins are rimmed in bright, sapphire-blue.

The Rusty Angelfish requires at least a 30-gallon tank with large amounts of live rock for hiding and grazing. Not a good reef dweller, the Rusty Angelfish is prone to nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates) and clam mantles. It is best kept as the only Dwarf Angelfish in the tank.

The diet of the Rusty Angelfish should include Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, mysid shrimp, and other meaty items.

The Bubble Tip Anemone is often referred to as the Four-colored, Bulb Tentacle, Bulb Tip, or Bulb Anemone. Red variations may be referred to as Rose Anemones. The appearance of the Bubble Tip Anemone can vary greatly from one individual to the next. At rest, the tentacles have enlarged tips.

The Bubble Tip Anemone is usually found in coral rubble, or in solid reefs. Its pedal disc is usually attached deep within dead coral. It stretches its tentacles to become sweeper tentacles when hungry. That is, the tentacles become elongated to capture a meal, then the tentacles shorten and the bubble tips return.

Handle this invertebrate, and all Anemones, with care. They can sting other Anemones, as well as Corals.

The Bubble Tip Anemone needs strong illumination with live rock full of deep holes and crevices, or branchy corals placed in sand. Larger specimens tend to be from deeper water, but may tolerate a strong lighting set-up. It is generally a hardy reef animal, although, it is prone to infections just after shipping. It should be kept with a Clownfish such as Premnas biaculeatus, Amphiprion frenatus, or Amphiprion chrysopterus for best results. At times, the tentacles may appear stringy; this may be due to insufficient light or the need for food.

aquariablog’s take: I had one of these guys briefly. As with all anemone you should be sure to put a sock or something around things like Koralia PH’s or they’ll get sucked it and chopped up..fowling your tank. I learned the hard way.

Its diet should include chopped fish, shrimp, or worms if a clownfish is not present.