The Long Tentacle Anemone is also referred to as the Corkscrew Anemone, Sand Anemone, Red Base Anemone, and Long Tentacle Red Base Anemone. It has a similar appearance to Heteractis crispa, which has more tentacles and a tougher column. Its oral disc is usually visible and can grow up to 20″ in diameter. Its tentacles are spaced further apart than other similar anemones. It is found in various forms and color patterns, but its base is usually orange to red. It is a host to Clownfish, usually Amphiprion perideraion or Amphiprion clarki.

The Long Tentacle Anemone requires an aquarium with 4 inches of sand or rubble substrate in which it can hide.

The diet should include small pieces of fish or mussel, crustaceans, and frozen foods.

aquariablog’s take: I just got one of these guys. Be aware that many will caution you on adding one to your reef systems as they can “wander” the tank looking for a happy spot…stinging your corals along the way. I specifically cleared an area for mine at the bottom-middle of the tank and played with the water flow so that he’d find his way there and be happy. He hasn’t moved an inch so far and is beautiful. My Sexy Shrimp have hosted him and spend most of their time on or around him.

The Maxima Clam is also known as the Great Clam or Rugosa Clam. The mantle is found in a variety of rich and vivid colors and patterns. In general, the Maxima Clams have larger areas of solid color than the other Tridacna clams. The two halves of the shell are elongated and lack symmetry, thus it is sometimes referred to as Tridacna elongata. It has closely spaced rows of scales on the upper portion of the shell. Its shell may reach a width of up to 12 inches. Like T. crocea, it can burrow into the substrate, but not as deeply. It may also attach by its byssal filaments, which it can do in a day. The Maxima Clams are known to live together in great congregations in the wild. Both wild and cultured Maxima Clams are found in the aquarium industry. The Maxima Clam is probably the most widely recognized species of the giant clams.

The Maxima Clam is moderately hardy and requires bright lighting supplied by metal halide lamps to live, grow, and keep its intense colors. The type of lamp will depend on the depth of the tank and the position of the clam. A daylight fluorescent tube is also recommended. The Maxima Clam requires calcium levels of 400-480 mg/L, and a carbon hardness of 7 to 12 degrees. Proper levels of strontium and iodine are also needed. The subtrate should provide multiple areas into which the clam can burrow.

The Maxima Clam relies heavily on the photosynthesis of the algae growing in its mantle. However, it should be fed daily with a yeast-based suspension unless the tank is populated with fish and corals which are fed regularly. It also requires nitrogen for proper growth, and if the nitrate level is too low, additional nitrate should be added, but the level should not be higher than 2 mg/L.

aquariablog’s take: Just got one of these guys and plan to watch him like a hawk to be sure he’s happy. Watching my calcium levels closely. So far so good. Very neat looking creature.

The Astraea Snail is also called the Astraea Star Snail, or Astraea Conehead Snail. It is pyramidal in shape; some may have projections on the shell which give them a star-like outline.

The Astraea Snail will do well in an aquarium if provided with ample hiding places and sufficient room to roam. An aquarium with live rock is preferable so that it can graze on the algae. It will also graze on algae on the side of the tank. In addition, it eats cyanobacteria and diatoms. Do not place the Astraea Snail in an aquarium with hermit crabs. If it falls, it is often unable to right itself, and will need the aquarist to place it upright, again. It is sensitive to high levels of copper-based medications and will not tolerate high nitrate levels.

The diet may be supplemented with blanched spinach or lettuce and vegetable-based tablet foods.

aquariablog’s take: Another great worker and a valuable part of the cleanup crew. They clean everywhere..on the glass, rocks and they help to turn the sand.

Nassarius snails, which are commonly found in the coastal zones of most oceans, are one of the most ideal scavengers and detritus eaters for a reef aquarium. They have oval, spiral shells that resemble olive pits, and vary in size depending upon species. The Super Tongan Nassarius Snail (Nassarius distortus), for example, can reach a length of up to 1 inch, and is larger, easier to see, and very helpful in larger aquariums. Smaller Nassarius snails, such as Nassarius vibex, are often around 1/2 inch in length, and are useful in smaller aquariums, refugiums, and aquariums with less sand surface area.

Nassarius snails have a long tube-like siphon that protrudes from the end of the shell. They spend most of their time buried in the sand, with only their siphon extending above the substrate. Because these snails have an incredible sense of smell, they quickly detect any food introduced into the aquarium, and cause the substrate to “boil” as they emerge in search of food. They quickly consume detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, and fish waste before they can be broken down by bacteria and release excess nutrients in the system. In addition, while burying themselves they aerate the sand bed/substrate, which helps maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

The Super Nassarius Snail does best in an established aquarium with live rock and a deep sand bed. These snails are sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications.

The Super Nassarius Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.

Supplemental feeding for the Nassarius snails is not required in a marine aquarium with an established sand bed. However, if insufficient food is present, supplement their diet with frozen meaty foods such as brine or mysis shrimp and pieces of fish or scallop.

aquariablog’s take: I have dozens of these in my tank. They do a fantastic job of keeping the sand stirred and eating detrius. It’s also fun to see all these little “periscope” like appendages sticking up out of the sand and then to see them absolutely erupt from the sandbed when I add food.

The Cerith Snail is a small scavenger with an elongated spiral shell that is usually black with tiny white dots covering the entire shell. One of the most ideal scavengers, detritus eaters, and algae eaters, this snail is perfect for the reef aquarium, quickly devouring detritus, uneaten food, decaying organics, fish waste, and several types of nuisance algae. Cerith Snails will often bury themselves in the sand, which will help maintain adequate oxygen levels in the substrate.

The Cerith Snail prefers an established aquarium with live rock and a deep sand bed. These snails are sensitive to high nitrate levels and copper-based medications.

The Cerith Snail is extremely difficult to breed in captivity.

aquariablog’s take: This snail is a great worker and a valuable part of my cleanup crew. They clean everywhere..on the glass, rocks and they help to turn the sand.